The intimate spotlight exhibition Suit Yourself presents the exuberant finery worn by flamboyant Dutch men in the 18th and 19th centuries, made with striped velvet, floral embroidery and rich silk fabrics.
Clothes make the man
Men’s fashions in the 18th century were by no means understated, and the influence of the ‘macaroni’ from 1760 to 1780 soon caught on in the Netherlands. Worn mostly by wealthy men, the style was all about vivid colours and contrasting fabrics. Clothing also reflected the beauty ideal of that era: a blue waistcoat decorated with intricate embroidery, for example, incorporates a cardboard band that accentuates the length of the torso.
Near and far
The Dutch creators and wearers of these fashion items drew their influences from near and far. Heavy silk damask fabrics were woven and worn locally, while inspiration also came from Turkish motifs and other international sources. The Dutch East India Company (VOC) imported exclusive fabrics such as silk, cotton and linen to the Netherlands, through a process that often involved violence and oppression.
Increasing choice
The French Revolution (1789–1799) led to more subdued fashions, as soldiers in uniform became the models of masculinity. Relatively subtle displays of wealth remained visible in the detailing, however, with items such as waistcoats featuring double rows of buttons. In the 19th century, styles were further influenced by industrialisation, which increased the availability of fabrics and ready-to-wear clothing. This period also saw a flourishing market for second-hand fashions. One exceptional example of this recycling phenomenon is a waistcoat made of hand-painted Chinese silk from an 18th-century dress.
Design
The exhibition is designed by the French architecture practice Wilmotte & Associés.
Images Courtesy of the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
