Vivienne Westwood, 1980-89
Vivienne Westwood and partner Malcolm McLaren gained attention in the 1970s for designing clothes that captured the iconoclastic spirit of Punk style. In 1980, they changed the name of their London store from Seditionaries to World’s End — and left Punk behind to move in a new direction. They began to show their collections on the runway for the first time, shaking up the fashion industry from within.
Although Westwood and McLaren ended their partnership by mid-decade, Westwood found continued success as a solo designer, as her idiosyncratic style earned her international acclaim. In 1989, Women’s Wear Daily publisher John Fairchild crowned her one of “the six best designers in the world.” Vivienne Westwood, 1980-89 is the first exhibition to focus on Westwood’s transformation from street style provocateur to influential fashion designer.
The exhibition, on view March 8 – April 2, 2011, offers three different views of Westwood’s work during this pivotal decade. In the Press examines the coverage she received from fashion and lifestyle publications as she rose to prominence. In the Streets and On TV contextualizes her work within the street style and music scenes. On the Runway features selections of Westwood’s work from The Museum at FIT’s collection and period catwalk footage to demonstrate the rebellious, sexy style that is distinctly 1980s Westwood.
Westwood in the Press
Westwood and McLaren launched World’s End in 1980, the same year that The Face first went to press. The Face and other alternative publications, such as i-D, were highly influential magazines that covered fashion, music, and nightlife. Their editorials covered World’s End extensively, and contributed to the brand’s reputation by dressing musicians and adolescent models in World’s End attire.
As the decade progressed, Westwood’s solo work piqued the interest of international fashion editors. Her newly sophisticated designs emphasized feminine curves. The media responded by styling her clothing with professional models: in 1989, a Westwood design, worn by supermodel Tatjana Patitz, was featured on the cover of British Vogue. Westwood was now established within the fashion industry, and in 1990 she was named British Designer of the Year.
Westwood on the Runway
Early World’s End designs focused on drapery and layering, and could be worn by both women and men. References to historical fashion, street art, and world dress were combined with unlikely materials such as Velcro, sport fabrics, and rubber. Innovative cutting and styling resulted in asymmetrical designs that alternately clung to and hung away from the body.
Early World’s End designs focused on drapery and layering, and could be worn by both women and men. References to historical fashion, street art, and world dress were combined with unlikely materials such as Velcro, sport fabrics, and rubber. Innovative cutting and styling resulted in asymmetrical designs that alternately clung to and hung away from the body.
Westwood In the Streets and On TV
Malcolm McLaren dressed the members of his pop group, Bow Wow Wow, almost exclusively in World’s End designs. The World’s End look appealed in particular to the image-conscious New Romantics, a subcultural group that emerged in reaction to the abrasiveness of Punk. They were drawn to the imaginative reinterpretations of historic dress that characterized World’s End style.
With the launch of MTV in 1982, World’s End clothing reached a wider audience through its visibility in music videos. McLaren’s interest in hip-hop culture influenced World’s End style, and graffiti prints by artist Keith Haring were incorporated into the designs.
Westwood introduced elements of street style into her solo collections of the 1980s. She considered tattoos to be fashionable accessories, and created peek-a-boo clothing that allowed body art to be on display. The body was no longer hidden under layers of draped fabric. Westwood’s designs revealed the stylish, toned physique that became the decade’s ideal.