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Weaving, Embroidering, Embellishing. The Crafts and Trades of Fashion

Start Date
13 December 2025
End Date
18 October 2026
Venue
Palais Galliera
Location
Paris, France
Curator
Émilie Hammen (General Curator)
Curators
Marie-Laure Gutton, Samy Jelil, and the entire conservation team

In December 2025, the Palais Galliera is launching a series of exhibitions devoted to the skills and crafts involved in Parisian fashions. The three successive exhibitions will explore the specialised jobs and techniques in the fashion industry from different angles, showcasing items from the museum’s stunning collections and offering a fresh perspective on the history of fashion from the 18th century to the present day.

This first exhibition is devoted to the decorative crafts used to embellish and decorate garments and accessories: weaving, printing, embroidering, lacemaking and artificial flowers. The theme chosen to explore these techniques is the flower, a motif which has featured prominently in textile art and fashion since the 18th century. The many variations on the theme reveal the interplay of textures, the treatment of colours and volumes and details inspired by the changing seasons. From the brocade fabric of an 18th century waistcoat to the laser prints of a Balenciaga ensemble; a piece of Chantilly lacework to Gabrielle Chanel’s famous camellia, the exhibition highlights the wide variety of techniques involved, while at the same time exploring their symbolism and applications.

With over 350 pieces (garments, accessories, photographs, graphic art, samples, tools, etc.), the exhibition features creations from haute couture houses as well as pieces by young designers, some of which have been made especially for the exhibition. Textile samples and tables equipped with magnifying glasses have been provided in order for the public to examine the pieces and, by studying them, to appreciate the complexity of the craftsmanship involved in each design. It is a unique opportunity to gain an insight into the very special skills and know-how of those who work in the fashion industry.

The Palais Galliera is also paying tribute to the people behind these skills, who are often forgotten or lesser known by the prestigious name of a couturier. Whether they are traditional Maisons such as Lesage or Hurel, or newer, contemporary players like Baqué Molinié or Aurélia Leblanc, the exhibition reviews these often unsung craftspeople of fashion: the textile designers, embroiderers, feather workers, and floral makers, who have made Paris the cosmopolitan capital and prime location for their exceptional skills, which they maintain in a constant state of innovation and renewal.